Los Angeles Herald, Volume 26, Number 312, 8 August 1897 — LATEST FADS [ARTICLE]

LATEST FADS

Rage for Lace and Ribbon Trimmings

NEW STYLES IN TEA GOWNS

SASHES A DIFFERENT SHADE FROM THE DRESS

Charming Mantles and Jackets—No More Bright Colored Linings. For Morning Wear

NEW YORK, Aug. 3.—The latest fad of fashion is bqth sensible and economical, as well as very charming. It is lace and ribbon trimming. Not that this sort of trimming is in use for the first time, but it is the initial occasion when It has been declared the thing to use. Such dainty effects are obtained with it, and it can be carried out to advantage by people whose purses are either long or short. For the summer girl It is particularly excellent. Inasmuch as when properly contrived It imparts exactly that fluffy effect so dear to her heart.

In spite of the fact that the tariff on silks has been raised—it is the one thing that tho women know abuut the new tariff bill—silks' have never been cheaper than they are now, and particularly the plain and figured silks known as Chinese. Japanese and Indian. It is to those perhaps that the lace and ribbon trimming forms the most charming garniture. It is well to remember also when speaking of this combination that both are as appropriate for winter as for summer, and therefore exceedingly economical, especially in the form of a teagown. Its style does not change, and so a summer bargain in silk and trimming is just as good for midwinter as for the time of purchase.

Fifteen yards of 22-inch silk will suffice for a teagown, having a Watteau back and full front, and a yard and a hail' less will do when this broadly plaited back is not used. The first of two very pretty gowns in this style is simply a close princess with a semi-train and tinupper part of the front shirred at the .neck and again at a point below the waist line. A bertha formed of six square -tabs, wider over the shoulders, is edged with lace and insertion and the collar corresponds. Collar band and belt are of ribbon. The sleeves have a puff ai the top, an elbow ruffle, and are trimmed with lace at the wrist. Soft woolen goods, such as cashmere, would also be very effective for this purpose, particularly with lace and ribbon or velvet trimmings. The second teagown of China silk has a separate Watteau back or train, and loose prineets fronts shirred in a tiny square yoke at tne veiL ul satin riu-uuii. xnere is a full ruche of lace around the throat and at the wrists. The sleeves are full at the top, and have deep cuffs of the lace to correspond. Both the gowns described are of plain silk, but figured material also used with good effect. The sash is very much in evidence on all up-to-date summer gowns, and If the fashion should be continued in velvet for fall use it will enliven many a woolen gown—but that of course Isprobftmatic. Certainly all sorts and kinds appear at present, ranging from five-inch si<"k ribbon and foulard to printed gauze and mousseline de sole, but of whatever material, invariably having long, broad ends. If the sash is of foulard, it consist* simply of a long, unlined strip of the silk draped round the waist and loosely tied either at the left s4de or at the back, and having long ends almost to the foot of the skirt. But whatever else Is variable, one thing is always certain—the sash must be of different shade from that of the d.ress with which it is worn. This is absolutely indispensable if one wants to be truly fashionable. A decided contrast, too, Is considered the correct thing, a black or white dress being brightened with a pink, blue, green ot red sash, while that worn on a gray dress will be either mauve or green. Embroidered dresses, on all occasions where a stylish toilet is required, are greatly in vogue. A. very pretty one was composed of cream white tulle de soie over a cream white- pleated underskirt, the tulle skirt being embroidered with garlands of delicate pink wild rose-.-' and foliage maivc-lously true to nature. These garlands rose at intervals round the skirt from hem to waist, the front width being entirely covered by the embroidery and framed on either side by a shell pleating of cream white English point lace, forming a tablier. The specific feature in garniture this season is a square yoke. It may be varied in design but it must remain v yoke. Some are very deep, and cover the drees from one armholeto the other, and ther, comes a short one, leaving a deep space between it and tho collar. Still others' have tiny pieces, recalling the bolero of last season, running under the aims, and yet another pattern finishes with a straight band running down either side to the belt. The real novelty In y,,kes, however, is an irregular effect, where one-side differs from the other in pattern and length. These yokes are in jet. colored beads In brilliant red. green and violet tinis. delicate evening colors such as corall and crystal, turquoi.se enameled in gold, black, an-d so on indefinitely. Mousseline grounds and burned-out grounds are equally handsome, and there is a brilliant, silvered, four-sided bead called the diamant.

For the lower grade of jackets and mantles the fashion Is turning to plain linings, mostly merveilleux, rhadames. serges and satins In piece dyed goods! while a very fair demand exists also for yarn dyed satins. The craze for bright colored linings is falling off, and the deman for black Is Increasing, and as a novelty tan is lie inn asked for. The finer mantles stlil require fancy linings In all silk.

For millinery velvet seems to have been taken up principally as velours miroir and velours soliel, in which form it will be used extensively for ladles' hats. This is shown by the early Paris models. Regarding the fashionable Shade In this article, a change seems to

have taken place. While red is falling off considerably and light greens and blues remain in favor, there is an unexpected demand for beige, tan, castor and grays ivhlch, however, can, only be obtained in mall quantities. Fancy velvets will make their appearance again this season.

The prevailing style In bodices Is a loose banded blouse, which opens in the front to show a vest. This fashion has been very generally approved of, but the very newest Is a bodice cut up or. either side, discovering a silk underbodice and united by gold buttons. A very pretty white one was thus mingled with blue

and had a horizontal band on the skirt, the sleeves being tucked at intervals all the way down. Many blue drills are made in thie s*yle, and many more take the form of a full blouse opening down the side and middle.

An innovation In the meployment of white silk is all important. Until of late white satin and white silk were not at all considered suitable for morning wear, but this is no longer theease. The parasols are made to match, generally unlined, hut all the dresses are lined, or have distinct linings, and generally of a color. The yokes of the white gowns are often elaborately embroideredi with cord or covered with guipure. Black lace over white silk is very much in favor, Chantilly being the most popular lace for the purpose, and sash scarfs of soft silk or black ribbon are worn with such costumes.