Sacramento Daily Union, Volume 46, Number 7063, 22 November 1873 — A TRIP TO PANAMINT. [ARTICLE]

A TRIP TO PANAMINT.

[correspondence op THE ONION. J The attention of miners and farmers has for some time been directed to southeastern California, aud the bullion and agricultural returns have more than justified the capital and labor already invested, passing by tbe brilliant promise of a more productive future. A recent trip extended far beyond tbe Sierra leads me to the opinion that a few notes of travel may nat prove uninteresting nor uninstructive to the readers of tbe Union. Leaving San Francisco by 4 o'clock p. m. fraiD, Delano, the present termi. nius of tbe S. P. R. R., is reached the ensuing morning at 7 o'clock ; thence by Telegraph Stage line over a rolling prairie 40 miles to Bakersfield, situated on tbe banks of Kern river, and the objective point of departure for Los Angeles, Hanlah, Fort Tejon, Walker river, Independence, Panamint, and Slate RaDge regions. BafcersflfH!. The town lies low and flat about one mile from tbe river, and is traversed by ditches for irrigation and commercial purposes ; half a dozen stagnant slougbs full of fetid water serve most admirably in the heated term to scatter abroad intermittent aud remittent fever, rendering the town the Mecca of the medical fraternity. Bakersfield is not an enticing spot to a tourist or traveler; it is not a cheerful place; it has no church, but somehow manages to prosper without au emporium for distribution of the different evangelical notions. Judging from the number of gin shops it ought to be a good place for a Roman Catholic temple and an orphan asylum. 1 have stated that there are some disadvantages at Bakersfield, but the farmers, or stock men, the marvelously rich bottom lands stretch away to the lakes investhis fancy with the bloom of cereals and lowing of herds and leave no skeleton of quinine and Dover's powders to shadow tbe vision of future thrift. Near the town saw shocks of corn more than twenty feet in bight, the same land having produced a bounteous crop of spring wheat. There are many good men here too : among them I became personally indebted for many favors gracefully rendered. I may mention B. Bruadridge, D. H. Price, the efficient agent of the Telegraph Stage Co., one of the most accomodating men 1 have ever known; Hansiug, agent for Wells Fargo & Co.; Judge Adams and Dr. Mix. Several hotels, groceries and saloons grace the town, which seems to be a sort of mile-stone on the grand highway of our nation, stationary, only until the iron rail shall bring commerce and prosperity and travel to the eastern side of Keru river. Correction. Within the past six months 1 bave ridden bun dreds of miles on the coaches ofthe Telegraph Stage Co.. and wben I read in the Union a letter from a correspondent styling bimself "'California" soundly abusing tbe conveniences of that line. I am free to confess I was astounded ; for though a comparative stranger, bearing no other credentials than the " look" of an old Californian, and a kindness in my heart towards every man engaged in ministering to the wants ofthe traveling public, 1 certainly never met more courteous agents and drivers than those of this company, who from Independence to Bakersfield and Los Angeles manage and care for some as good rolling {stock and stage teams as ever made the old " pioueer line" famous ; while the proprietor, Win. Hamilton, an old resident of Nevada county, is too well known to need any compliment. While it is true that the county highways for hundreds of miles are ungraded aud uospruikied; that Prussian cat pets nor Damascus velvets are furnished the traveler on whicb to rest his perfumed bead ; tbat at the stations, no dainty tare nor epicurean spread is furnisbed at four bits per capita, it is equally as true that any person desirous of making tbe journey over auy of the routes of the Telegraph Stage Compauy will find themselves conveyed witb celerity", safety and cheapness; and in that section — like any other politeness begets politeness, and, "Calilornia" to the contrary notwithstanding, tbe people one meets as well as stage companies, will bear lavorable comparison with the gentlemen [similarly engaged on the other side, whom be lauds so much. A " fair deal "C, if you please, It is a, loug tedious ride through the pass of Tebachipee to the broad desert which makes down from tbe Telescope Mountains to tbe ocean, but the bonest hospitality of tbe people at the stations takes away much of the weary feeling otherwise almost unbearable. Tebachipee. This little town is located on the summit of a broad plateau, 4,000 feet above the sea, and nestles like a brilliant emerald in the lap of some of the craggiest peaks of the Nevada. Neither lawyer nor doctor find habitation tbere, tor tbe people all seem to be " on the square," and the air is as pure as tbe breath of angels, and fans the cheek with vigorous health; no professional cumbers Tebacbioee, save and except gentlemen of the church, but at tbe date of my visit a "'tracted meetio'" was being held, and 1 am proud to say that I saw and appreciated a shade the roughest tussle with Satan which I ever witnessed, lt was " powerful" tough. From this to the " sink" is a fine roiling country, where thousands of sheep wax wouiy and fat, and then mile after mile of the most cheerless waste of desert to a high green spot in tbe plain, known to all travelers as Desert Springs, and kept by Uncle Harry Ball, who is widely and popularly known al! over the East as one of the kindest-hearted and most genial of men. The springs are numerous, aud possess many mineral properties, some quite cold and pure, and others hot and reeking with sulphurous vapors. Not far away are iocated beds of the borate of lime of immense value. A Tale of Terrible Suffering. The night before my arrival, a man named Frank Gilbert from the Joe Walker mine crawled into Desert Station almost dead from suffering tbiist and hunger. When I first saw him be was in a pitiable condition, yet bis mind was clear, and a. narrative which 1 took from his lips I will give you as nearly as possible, premising the story with the declaration that eveiy thing he stated was verified by Bail, Caughlin, Lent aod others at the springs. Statement of Gilbert. "1 had been at work lor Judge Colby of Havilah, Superintendent of the Joe Walker mine, and started with a good horse to visit the Slate Range mines, and arrived here Wednesday. After a good night's rest I left for Slate Range Thursday morning at 8 o'clock. The weather was quite hot, but I filled my caateeu with water and started off; at Mesquite Springs, eleven miles away, I fouad water, arriving there about noon, and after a rest 1 tilled my canteen afresh and started for Bedrock Springs, the next water, haviug full and clear instructions trom Ball as to tbe route. These springs are a little off the road, and somehow 1 passed by the trail aDd missed the springs; to next water was thirty miles of desert, and in the afternoon I Lad called on my canteen often, and by 0 o'clock had exhausted its contents, and by 4 o'clock was very thirsty, the sun pouring down intense heat, and the dust from a sand-storm almost blinding me and my horse, now showing signs of great thirst and fatigue. Thinking to strike Bed Rock Springs every rod I urged my horse forward, but as mile after mile was left behind and the sun sank behind the hills, I became conscoius that I must have passed the springs ; but I kept on until dark, and rnrnea to retrace my way, well aware tbat I must have water for my horse or I would never reach Slate Range, across that thirty mile desert; about midnight, becoming satisfied that 1 bad lost the spring trail, I tethered my horse to a bush aDd slept two or three hours' but at the first break of day 1 started again and left tbe road for a canyon where I thought there must be water, I wßnt up the canyon about four or five miles and found no trace of water. I then began to suffer intensely and took across the mountains, throwing away my pack to lessen the weight for the horse. At about 10 o'clock I reached tbe summit, when my horse weakened and refused to go a step. 1 tied him up and started down to the canyon in the east for water; the heat bad now become great, and I was suffering ail the agony of bell, but nei ved by tbe thought of dying of thirst I actually ran for a long way, and at last, aware tbat there could be no water found, started back to the spot where I left my horse. I was becoming so fully exhausted, and ■ almost overcome with the awful heat, and without reflection, or in delirium, I can't say. wbicn, I took off my vest, trowsers and woolen shirt aDd threw them away ; slowly I dragged myself to my horse, mounted bim and started to the west, but in a few hundred yards be again stooped and refused to go ahead. I tben saw certain death before me unless I could obtain some relief. My body was exposed almost naked to tbe torrid sun, and my flesh was becoming blistered, my tODgue was parched, swollen and sore, aDd I wassufleriug more tban I can tell you ; it occurred to me then that my

only way to live was to bleed my poor horse and drink his blood, bat I had thrown away my knife with my clothing, and bad no instrument with which to bleed him. I bunted around and found a piece of slate-rock which was sbarp on one edge, and with this I succeeded in opening tbe vein on the inside of the off hind leg, aDd the blood trickled forth. I put my mouth to tiie wouDd aad moistened my toDgue with the hot, pungent blood, which, though bitter and nauseous, afforded me some relief, and in a few moments I was able to swallow, and tben I drank all I could; and tben tearing open tbe wound, beld my bat and caught at least a quart of blood, which I afterward drank, and then laid down in the shade of a busb ; the blood made me quite sick at tbe stomacD tor a little while, but I soon got stronger, and. conscious that my life depended on mv eDduraace, started down the mountains, lying dowD frequently iD the shade of tbe bunches of sagebrush; whither i was going I knew not, only that 1 prayed to God tor strength aod direction to water ; I kept od until dark, and then, Paving reached a dividiog ridge laid down; the wind was blowing quite hard, and the hot air singed me like a furnace, but with my Lauds I dug down into the sand to moist earth and showered it over my body to cool my agony, tor the relief 1 'had experienced from drinking blood had all departed, aud all my 'sufferings returned tenfold. At last I fell asleep and must have slept several hours (as near as 1 can tell, till midnight.) and when I awoke the wind bad become fiercer and cold, and I was so chilled and benumbed that it was almost impossible to move, and racking pain sharp as a knife pierced me through and through. I rubbed my cramped limbs and at iast got so I could stand"; wheu by swinging my arms and stamping the ground I was enabled to walk, and although my feet were so swollen 1 could not put on my sboes, and the sand bad worn the flesh from the soles, I started about daybreak down to the eastward, and about 9 o'clock, when the sun had become almost intolerable, struck the road which 1 came io and from tbe bones of a skeleton horse -*bich I remembered, 1 knew I must be from twelve to fifteen miies beyood Mesquite Spriogs, aDd although Dearer to Bed Rock Springs, I telt it unsafe to attempt to find an unknown place, and one, too, wbicb I bad first missed, and I was assured that my only cbance for lite was in reaching Mesquit-. Springs. I started, aud every half or quarter of a mile, I would dig down to damp sand and get temporary relief by a regular saud-batb, and after resting a little while go forward. Oh! sir, if you only knew bow I suffered during that struggle for life along tbat terrible road; bowl prayed for a team ; for a breath ot cool air ; tor a drop of water to cool my fevered throat and parched moutb. My feet were bleeding, ay fingers worn to the quick in digging the earth, my tongue protruding from my month and cracked witb beat and fever; unable to swallow and almost suffocated, my body covered with burning blisters, aud my strength almost gone. I thought of all 1 had ever done, of friends and life, and then came the thought of death in that terrible desert, It was horrible, and so 1 walked and crawled along, and about 1 o'clock, I think, reached the Spring. I remembered how drinking water had often caused death, and although I crawled and rolled into the spriDg, whose waters were as sweet as life, and were lite. I only bathed my mouth aad toogue uutii its swelling subsided, and then I drank a cup full or so. Forabout an bour I lay in that glorious spring, and gradually my fever stopped and my burning throat became quenched. Then tbe pangs ot hunger came on, and I felt almost fainting with its terrible gnawing. I tben left the spring, and after the longest bouis 1 ever knew, reached this place in the condition these gentlemen tel! you. I shall never forget their nor your kindness, and may God grant death at once rather than a second journey of sixty-four hours without water."

Your correspondent desires to say that he vouches for the correctness of all that is stated above. I saw his hat smeared with the blood of his horse, from which Gilbert had quaffed life; bis person, smeared with oil by the hands of that good Samaritan, Harry Ball, was covered with huge blisters, for he only had on a shirt and his feet worn to the quick ; teamsters who came over the road he bad traveled confirmed toe story of his digging scores of boles in tbe earth for damp sand. Although he bad recovered wonderfully when I first saw him, and continued to improve every hour under kind attention at the station, his body bore unmistakable marks which recorded one of the most fearful journeys that man ever made and lived to relate the particulars of. Tbe morning I left Spence- of Tebachipee (one of the most generous of men) started a donation for Gilbert, who bad lost everything be possessed, and, among the dozen men there, raised enough to relieve his necessities. As soon as Gilbert should have recovered it was his intention to retrace bis steps to where he threw off' his pack and clothing, which contained a purse and $ 20 in coin. WithiD the past year two people have lost their lives from thirst and huogeron tbat desert, and when I say ttat the heat ranged from 90 to 110 degrees it can well be understood how dangerous a thing it was aDd is for a stranger to attempt the perils of that burning waste. Panamint— Rich Mines. Nicety miles noitheast of Desert Springs, and in the range of Telescope Mountains, are the famous Panamint mines. H. J. Lent ot Inyo made a track with a team and wagon within four miles of the mines, and found an easy and direct route, making the distance from Delano about 220 miles and from Los Angeles 200 miles. The ore is silver glance, chloride, bromide silver, and copper and galena assaying largely in precious metals. The ledges are traceable for a loug distance, well defined and contiguous to timber and water in profusion. Men with means are about putting up a custom mill, and are confident of a rich future return. About one hundred locations have been made, and at this time about thirty men are at woik in the mines. I do not doubt that in one year these mines will rank among the best on the coast. Lent has located a toll-road, and will at once commence work to secure a franchise. He is an old miner, energetic, capable and bonest, aud has now gone to San Francisco, but will return to Panamiut soon. On my return I louud that at Haviluh and Keruv.lle are some mines which are of great value. From Judge Colby of Havilab I learned some particulars not uninteresting. Joe Walker Mine. Tbe depth of 500 feet has been attained, and a fine body of geld ore has been developed. A large vein of water has retarded labor, and wben I found that 00,000 gallons of water pumped per hour only kept the flow stationary, it will be seen that the machinery, which is the best in tbe State, is none too large nor powerful. Judge Colby related to me a curious incident : A Cornish pump had been submerged in the shaft for nearly two years, and at a depth of 250 feet. The new pump failing to lower the water, the Superintendent — suggested to the engineer that it might do to connect and run the old pump, but fie laughed at the idea and declared it impossible ; but be insisted, and upon applying tbe cower the heavy column responded, and from that day to this bas been constantly at work. Ned Buik-. an old aDd esteemed pioneer of Gold Hill, Nevada, Senator J. P. Jones, A. Hayward and Judge Colby are the principal owners of the mine, which is yielding large amounts of good ore. At Kernville is the celebrated Sumner Mine,

in my judgment one of the very best mines in the whole world. The bed of ore is colossal, being from forty to sixty feet in width, and showing immense masses of metal to the bottom, a distance of three hundred feet. There is enough ore now is sight to run one hundred stamps five years ; and it is my opinion that this deposit of. ore is to-day the very best piece of mining property in California. Washing tbe mine is the river with ample power to run a thousand mills: lumber abound*; mining is easy. I think tbe entire ledge will yield on an average $15 per too. and when the reduction woiks are made ample bullion leturns will bevervbeavv. I regard this mine cheap at $2,000,000. Burke, Jones, Colby, Gentry and others are owners. Next comes the

St. Jobn .Mine at Sageland, owned by Bridger & Co. Tbe shaft is down 700 feet with but very little water to retard labor. A six-foot ledge is yielding daily about twenty-five tons of first-class ore, and a new mill is soon to be built.

The Bright Star Mine is owned by the Bohdea Brothers and has already yielded a fortune to its lucky possessors, who have developed it with their own labor and reaped a fortune in the development. Besides those mentioned are many other smaller but no less lucrative mines in ratio to the extent ot development; the entire section is flattering to prospectors and miners, and as yet Dot one-tenth prospected. My trip was instructive, tiresome and I hope profitable ; but I can't finish this letter witbout saying that the monstrous tariffs for fare and freight, promulgated by the railroad, is hostile in the extreme to the interests of Kern county. The fare from San Francisco to Bakersfield is $27; to Los Angeles, 160 miles further along, it is but 125. Freights are correspondingly bigh, aDd in every instance they demand their "pound of flesh*." I bad occasion to send a

telegraphic dispatch from Delano to Bakersfield, a distance of forty miles^and was mulcted in the sum of $3 25 for nineteen word-: — a petty attempt at grand larceny — both telegraph conipaaies shariDg the robbery. At the solicitation of a lady, I purchased in San Francisco, and forwarded to her at Bakersfield, by Wells, Fargo & Co.'s express, a case of condensed milk, weighing fifty pounds, and the express enlarges were £5 75 ! Damned robbery ! With three such insatiable vampires draining every drop of blood from the financial veins of Fresno, Tulare and Kern, what wonder that citizens complain of hard times. I shall visit Panamint soon, and will post you touching mining matters. Chandler.