Sacramento Daily Union, Volume 19, Number 2934, 22 August 1860 — CALIFORNIA WINES. [ARTICLE]

CALIFORNIA WINES.

The Report, on Native Wines in the volume of " Transactions of the Statu Agricultural Society for 1859," just published, is one of the most interesting and instructive treatises that has yet appeared on the subject of California wines. Instead of limiting their observations to a comparison between the different samples on which they were required to pronounce, or expending mere technical praise on the one best entitled to the Society's award, the Committee chose the wiser and honester course of adopting the standard of good foreign wines as a test by which to judge our native product, and withholding from such as fell short of that standard any marked commendation. . This course swept the board pretty effectually of the one hundred samples of native wine submitted, and '.will probably have the effect to make the labors of

the next Committeo on the subject very light, os only one or two of the sample.? exhibited last year came in for special mention. The Managers of the Society for 1859, or their representatives in the publication ofthe "Transactions," were doubtless a little apprehensive of this consequence, and seem to have thought it necessary to soften the rugged aspect of the relations which this report might establish between the Society and the wine growers, by throwing in the following explanatory note by way of apology for the Committee's course : '.' The Society does not hold itself responsible for the opinions or deductions of Committees." Without wishing to appear censorious, we will take the liberty of observing that this covert animadversion on the report was ill-advised and gratuitous. As a -statement of fact it is not strictly correct, for the Society, in appointing the Committees and assigning their duties, requires them to act in conformity with in rules, and to be bound by the limits and nature of its award?. It has power, we presume, to set aside reports not made in compliance with its regulation- ami the rides governing honorable dealing ; and sines these reports arc at best but the expression of the best opinion and judgment of the Committees, the above statement of the Society's position toward the report of the Committee on Native "Wines strikes us as erroneous. But its worst feature is the discouragement it offers to future Committees to take a similarly high, impartial and beneficial view of the field of competition for which it is the design of our State Society to St the agricultural interests of California. Leaving our County and District Fairs to settle the question of pre-eminence between tho various products and localities, it should be the object of the State Society to bring forward our choicest specimens for comparison with the best efforts of other countries. Tins, it seems to us, is the true sphere of a State institution.

But having said so much of the report on native wines, we shall be expected to make good our complimentary allusions by citing a portion or the whole of the document. As it is not long, we have preferred to set it before the reader in full :

RaroßT on wive Wines. — In reporting on the wines presented for competition at the late State Fair, your Committee have availed themselves of the occasion to offer some remarks on the general character of the wines, rather than to enter into details as to the merits of the different varieties of wine to which premiums were awarded. They have also considered that the facts which Lave come under their observation, in judging of so many samples of wine (nearly one hundred), produced in different sections of the State, might enable them to offer some suggestions on the further development of this important branch of industry, which ay be useful to those engaged or about to engage in it. There can, we think, be but one opinion as to the peculiar advantage possessed by California as a wine producing country ; advantages which are not to be found combined in any other country in which the culture of the grape has been introduced. The nature of our climate is such that the grape invariably grows and comes to maturity under conditions that are universally acknowledged to be the most favorable for the production of the finer varieties of wine. When, as occasionally happens in the wine producing countries of Europe, they have a Summer approaching even the invariable character of ours, as regards temperature and dryness, the vintages, in such seasons, never fail to be of a superior quality. Here, at least, this element of success in wine growing is never wanting; as often as the Summer comes round, so sure is it to bring a season favorable for making first class wine.

As regards soil and elevation, we possess advantages which are not to be surpassed. The different ranges of mountains traversing the State in parallel lines, through its whole length, afford innumerable localities among the lower hillsj in which, according to all analogy, vineyards for the production of the finer wines can be planted, with every advantage of soil and exposure. Up to the present time, however, judging from the samples exhibited at the late State Fair, our wine growers have not been in a position to fully avail themselves of these advan-

tages. However agreeable the task would have been to have bestowed every praise on the productions of cur own soil, yet a regard for what we believe to be the truth, and a consideration for what we think will eventually be most conducive to the true interests of our wine growers, leads us to express the opinion that up to the present time the wines of California have not reached that standard of perfection which our climate and soil must one day enable them to attain. One of our cumber, Dr. Blake, has taken the trouble of submitting to a careful chemical analysis, one cf the best ofthe wines exhibited, and has found that it contains as much as fifteen per cent, of alcohol a quantity almost as large as is found in the strong wines, the ports, sherries and Madeiras of Europe, and fully twice as much as is contained in any wines that are used as a common drink in wine-producing countries. Again, the quantities of vegetable acids (tartaric and raccmic), in our wines is very small, being not more than one-fourth of that which is contained in the ordinary French- and German wines. A comparison of the following figures, taken from Mulder's work on " The Chemistry of Wine," with the results obtained by the analysis of our native wine, will fully confirm these observations :

In order, if possible, to arrive at the cause of these differences in the analysis of our wines, as compared with that of other countries, a chemical investigation of the juice of the grape as it came from the press, was undertaken. The most important elements to determine were the amount of sugar and free acid contained in the grape juice, and to compare the results with those obtained from the analysis of the juice of grapes known to furnish a superior wine. , The only analysis of foreign grape juice that was available for comparison is contained in Kopp A Will's "Jahresbericht der Chemie," for one thousand eight hundred and fifty-seven, and was made by Fresenius, a celebrated German chemist. It furnishes the following figures :

It is evident from these figures that tbe amount of sugar contained in our native grape is much greater, and that the amount of free acid is much less than in the grapes which are used for the manufacture of the lighter German and French wines. •;. - . -■ In view of these facts, your Committee believe they are authorized to call the serious attention of our wine growers to the necessity of an early introduction into this country of varieties of foreign grapes which j appear to possess those qualities which are wanting in our own, or, in other words, which contain less sugar and more free acid.

On the importance of the presence of free acid in the grape, we would quote the following observation of Mulder, who has written a valuable work on the "Chemistry of Wine:"

: " Lastly, I must mention that, as a rule, the most odenferous ingredients predominate in

wine containing free acids— tartaric acid, for example. Very sweet wines obtained from grapes which contain either very little free acid or have this acid softened by excess of sugar, are in general much less fragrant than some French or Rhenish wines.. This confirms the opinion I have given as to the influence of the free tartaric acid in the formation of the compound ethers (the oderiferous principle)." As to recommending any particular varieties which are most likely to fulfill these objects, your Committee feel that the want of experience which, after all, must decide as to the grape that will produce the best wine in this State, will render any suggestions they may offer of but doubtful value. . In referring to different works on the culture of the grape, and on the making of wine, they have found, however, descriptions of some varieties which would promise to fulfill the necessary, indications. In the South of France, the white and red Muscat are much cultivated. They produce a wine which is highly esteemed as a dessert wine, but which is too alcoholic for an ordinary table wine. Among the grapes most cultivated in the east of France and producing lighter wines, are the Foulard, the Baclan or Beclan, and the Enfarine (very tart The principal varieties from which champagne is made, are the Franc Pineau or Flante Core d'Av, and the Plante vert Dore. The best wines of Bordeaux, or the clarets, are made from the Verdot (a different plant from that imported into this country under that name), the Caber-net-Sauvignon, Franc Cabernet and Malbee; this last & very free bearer. Among the most prolific varieties for the commoner table wines are the Auvernat and the Gamai blanc; for abundance of yield and for the quantity of free acid it contains, this last variety, ths Gamai blanc, appears to surpass all others. It might afford a valuable juice for mixing with that of our native grape. Besides these French grapes, there are the Riessling and Kleinberger^two very good varieties of German grapes, which would probably do well on our hill sides. We say probably, for it is impossible to form an opinion as to the effect that our soil and climate may have on any of these plants. So apparently capricious is the vine that the variety which yields a fine flavored wine when planted on a hill side, will give an inferior wine when planted in the plain at the foot of the bill, while "the plant which on the plain yielded a good wine, has its produce deteriorated when planted on the hill side. Mr. Rendu, Inspector General of Agriculture in France, in a most valuable work he has published on the vineyards of that country, has enumerated and described one hundred and forty -four varieties of grapes that are there grown for the production of wine, and as they have been cultivated there for centuries, there can be no doubt but that each variety has some properties which render it most appropriate for the soil and climate of the locality where it is grown. In view of this fact, our wine-growers must certainly produce a far superior article when experience shall have taught them what varieties of grape are most suitable to the many and marked differences in soil aud climate that are found in our State, and shall not attempt to make one variety of grape yield good wine on the hills and in the valleys, on the moist, sandy fiats of Los Angeles, and in the clayey soil and heated, dry atmosphere of the northern valleys. After alluding, in the work above named, to the different soils which are found in the wine-growing districts of France, Mr. Rendu observes : " Almost every variety of soil is found in our most celebrated vineyards, and appears able to furnish a superior wine when the variety of grape cultivated has been well selected, that is, when it is perfectly appropriate to the soil and climate. The choice of the proper variety of grape that will suit the soil and climate, is after all the great secret for obtaining superior wines in a climate where the grape flourishes." The best red wine that was exhibited was made by Mr. Delmas, of San Jose, from foreign grapes, and although, as appears by his catalogue, these grapes had been selected more as table fruit than for wine making, yet the sample of wine exhibited by that gentleman only shows what could be done by a judicious selection of proper varieties. There "were also exhibited some specimens made from the Muscat, possessing a great deal of boquet, and which, as dessert wines, would be far superior to the produce of the California grape, and may probably become valuable wines for exportation. With these remarks your Committee would conclude their report, and in se doing they cannot avoid expressing the hope that the facts and observations contained ia it, may lead our winegrowers to see tbe necessity lor the introduction of varieties of foreign grapes. Improvement on Carpenters' Planes. — As all of the inventions by Californians, as well as improvements, etc., discovered by them, are receiving attention from the pros , it, would be an injustice to permit an improvement on the carpenters' ordinary planes, which has lately come to our notice, to pass without directing public attention to it. It is by our townsman, C. Livingston, and consists in a new method of fastening the bit, Upon either side of the plane, where tho wedge is now inserted, is fastened a brass plate, which supports a circular iron shaft, about three-quarters of an inch in diameter, which has an eccentric revolving motion, and is turned by means of a common nail or similar instrument, inserted in a hoi' in the center. By simply turning the -haft the bit i^ fastened without changing its setting; which, with its far greater convenience and simplicity, it will be seen at a glance, give 'it immeQ^ superiority over the old wedge method. It should not be forgotten either, that the bit can by the mere use of a common nail he fastened tighter with the eccentric than it is usually done with the wedge. There can be no reason why this improvement should not come into immediate general use. It would seem in fact, now that we have seen it, that a plane cannot be properly used without it.— Sun Mateo Gazette.

Decree against the " Star or Hope." — case of William 0. Annan, against the ship Star of Hope, came up in the United States District Court, in admirably, August 18th. The matter had been referred to Commissioner (hovers, whose report had been' excepted to by both the libelants and the claimants. The exceptions of the libelants were decreed to be sustained, and judgments against the ship, and in favor of the libelants, for the following amounts, were declared : vAi Ai That W. C. Annan, W. H. Talmadge and J. W. Embury recover (26,469; Jense Sawyer, $13,014; Adrian & Story, $375 ; J. D. Wing, $297 ; J. -M. Boi-ares, $213 ; Crosby -ie DibWee, $600 ; D. R. Provost, $882 ; D. H. Burke, *77 ; Moore & Folger, $32 ; Park & White, $282; Bond & Hale , $838 ; Jones & Stevens, $722 ; J. Y. -Bollock _ Co., $1,404; James Patrick & Co., $10,091 ; J. W. Embury, W. C. Annan and George Haxzard, $10,719. It was ordered further, that Henry Pearson, the claimant of the vessel, pay $45,000 into Court ; this is the appraised value of the ship, while the judgments against her amount to $66,000. In default of Mr. Pearson to pay in the amount first named, execution was ordered to issue against the vessel. Bulletin. '.

The Classical Names in New York. We have received the following communication

from a correspondent at Forest City, who, judging from the similarity of names, we should think was a relative of Simeon DeWitt, the former Surveyor General of Xew York. He, therefore, may be supposed to speak understanding^. He says, in reply to " II.:"

■ The classical names of certain places in the State of New York should be attributed neither to a drunken schoolmaster, nor to the Surveyor General of that State*. The Commissioner of the Military Bounty Lands, whose name I forget, but who was somewhat of a pedant, returned the plats after survey to the Surveyor General's office with those names attached, and they arc to be credited to him alone. Simeon DeWitt, according to lis own statement, never named a place within the State. This charge has been refuted several: times; in the New York papers, and once in reply to a humorous attack of Fit?. Green Halleck, commencing with the line - " God-father of the christened West **.". Which New Yorkers may perhaps remember. Cashmere Goats a Florida.— The Apalachicola Sentinel says : R. J. Floyd, of Apahchicola, has presented us with a fleece from . a Cashmere goat, raised on St. Vincent Island, on the coast of Florida, We have never. seen anything of the kind to approach it, in the softness, fineness and beauty of its fiber. Some of the strands measure sixteen inches in length and are as fine as the finest silk. It has more the appearance of the fine,'' clear Sea Island cotton than any wool we have I seen. Floyd » informs us that he has quite a number of these : goats, and he thinks they. will do well en the : coast of Florida. ; The experiment he is trying is well worthy of the consideration of those who feel interested in what may become a new article of product in our fair land j of flowers. I

Variety. i?ugar. | Free Acid. Oestcrrelcher grape (fully ripe) ! ' 3.7S Ripe Kleinberger ... 10.59 n:««-iinfc.... V. ; 13.5 CaUroraiagrape.analya'dbyDr.Blalce. 21 .0 1.02 0.32 0.71 0.2 C

V '.;:;■; t. Tartar. et ; 7. to 10 nary : 3. oc 1.4 ;nheimer 10,8 'ornll '15.00 I l.j to O.S 1.9 1.8 0.29